Forsythia: Prix-Fixe Pasta
During the height of the pandemic, I unconsciously walked the same five blocks each day. In search of sunlight and fresh air that was so absent from my apartment, Eldridge turned to Stanton, Prince, and then East Houston. Increasingly familiar with each street, I noticed even the slightest changes around me. A shoe on the sidewalk laid for days before it was picked up, a bartender on the block became a friend in passing, and a new group of puppies was brought to the vet each Monday morning for shots.
So when a large, white, outdoor seating area was created at 9 Stanton Street, I knew I had a new neighborhood spot to keep an eye out for, and I did. I even learned that the soon-to-be Forsythia started as a pop-up in the East Village, and had opened just five months prior. Days turned to weeks turned to a year, and I had watched both the success of Forsythia in its permanent home, and the rise of the pandemic. When I could comfortably eat inside, I used New Year’s Eve as an opportunity — and excuse — to try the tasting menu.
Focused on refined Roman comfort food, Forsythia keeps a small menu that rotates frequently, depending on what is available at the market. Jacob Siwak, formerly of Olmsted (and previously written about on Moyer’s Menu) helms the kitchen as the executive chef and owner. Before opening Forsythia, chef Jacob lived in Italy where he received his training in all things pasta from Trattoria Santo Palato in Rome and La Vecchia Scuola in Bologna.
I found myself at the bar of this intimate restaurant, adjacent to one of the smallest kitchens I have ever seen. As shoulders of strangers bumped here and there, I remembered a time when eating out wasn’t a health concern. Overflowing plants, dim lighting, and dried florals cast an elegant yet playful tone on the narrow space.
The first dish, braised-then-fried short rib meatballs, made me pause and wonder if the meal had already reached its full potential. After they melted in my mouth, I then tried my first bite of venison over an unlikely suspect — egg frittata. I was not disappointed.
Over five additional courses, rigatoni, soffici, and tortellini presented itself with partners such as ragu, ricotta, and broth. Little words were spoken, but many plates were finished. While the broth of the tortellini was not as flavorful as expected, it was just one of the many elements that showcased the kitchen’s range. And just when I thought I could not eat another bite, three scoops of gelato with more than five toppings suddenly disappeared.
With a direct line of sight, I watched the chefs prepare each dish with precision, speed, and poise. I believed that a Twister board-like flexibility was needed to operate in that kitchen, but somehow it all seemed familiar and orchestrated.
After the meal, I learned that the student became the master, and Chef Jacob now offers his own pasta classes at Forsythia. Participants create several shapes, doughs, and sauces, learn about pasta, and sip natural Italian wines.
Living in a small apartment during lockdown was not an easy time for many of us New Yorkers, but my memories of living in that area at that time remain happy. Watching the success of this now Bib Gourmand restaurant remains one of them. I look forward to returning and exploring the ever-changing menu, but would like the same gelato.
