Kimika: An Itameshi Investigation
The indisputable brunch hub of Lower Manhattan filled with locals and tourists alike can be found around Nolita’s Kenmare Street. From the Butcher’s Daughter, to Bluestone Lane Cafe, Egg Shop, and Charley St. (all of which I love), it was no surprise to hear of the opening of Kimika in the summer of 2020. Located in the Nolitan Hotel, the restaurant is adorned by a black and white awning, space heaters, greenery, and wicker chairs. The restaurant is a popular dinner spot, but boasts an impressive brunch as well. The chic setup fits perfectly into the scene, but the question soon posed itself: would Kimika be able to keep up with the bigger players just steps away?
Kimika is owned by Erika Chou, who also happens to own my favorite Thai spot, Wayla. The kitchen is helmed by Chef Christine Lau (Bar Chuko Izakaya), and Pastry Chef Clarice Lam.
The reason that Kimika’s location works so well is not only due to the high foot traffic and surrounding restaurants, but the proximity to both Chinatown and Little Italy. Why is this important, you may ask? Because Kimika is serving up what the restaurant calls Itameshi cuisine.
According to Eater NY, “Itameshi is a portmanteau of the words Italian and meshi, [Japanese] slang for ‘meal’.” The article goes on to explain that Italian pasta was introduced to Japan during the Edo period (1603–1868), and interestingly enough, spaghetti actually found its way into the mainstream via the U.S, not Italy. Noodles were officially trending in the 1960s, and eventually became a part of the 1980s “Itameshi Boom.”
Needless to say I was intrigued by this Japanese-Italian hybrid, and to be quite honest, was not confident in it. While dinner reservations at Kimika are harder to come by, I chose to sit during the warmer hours of the day for brunch with my family. Having driven in from New Jersey, I knew I had to pick something worth their while. With various dietary restrictions among my family members, I felt that there was something for everyone to enjoy.
The menu at Kimika is meant for sharing, and is divided into five non harmonious sections: pastry, small plates, brunch, pizzette fritte, and pasta. For a family of four, the waitress recommended six dishes. We had eight with no problem.
The meal commenced with a Bloody Mary infused with yuzu and wasabi. The taste was noticeably different and quite spicier than a traditional Bloody Mary, but was delicious nonetheless. I put it to the side when the first dish arrived: Vegan Black Sesame Frozen Yogurt dipped in a purple acai syrup with two sides of coconut goji berry granola and winter citrus. Although difficult to enjoy in 30 degree weather, I appreciated the flavor of the yogurt, which was complemented well by the crunch of the granola and acidity of the citrus.
Next came the Panini Porchetta with Chinese broccoli and melted provolone on seaweed focaccia with miso dip (that I ended up drinking), as well as the Tamagoyaki Frittata Sandwich with veggies and shiso sunflower pesto on a milk bread bun. For those who are unfamiliar, Tamagoyaki is a Japanese omelette involving layers of rolled fried egg. While I refrain from using the word unique in most instances, it was when I tried this dish that I began to understand how the flavors of Italy and Japan could work together to create something that truly embodied this adjective.
Under the pizzette fritte section came two more dishes: the Leporati Prosciutto di Parma with mizuna (Japanese mustard greens) and onion jam, as well as Di Palo’s Burrata with marinated cherry tomatoes and fried bread. The prosciutto on the first dish was served to absolute perfection, and the tomatoes on the second dish popped when bitten into, pleasantly overwhelming my mouth with sweetness. The crunch of the fried bread was a delicious addition, and soon understood that a traditional loaf of bread may have ultimately absorbed the juiciness I so loved. As Eater NY critic Robert Seitsema puts it, “The fried pizzas alone are good enough to make you want to return to Kimika again and again.”
In my opinion, however, the stars of the show came in the form of Matcha Mochi French Toast and Tsukemen Carbonara. There are few dishes I will remember for the rest of my life, but the Matcha Mochi French Toast is one of them. Made with milk bread, matcha mochi, vanilla custard, and topped with mascarpone cream, condensed milk, and citron syrup, this dish was worth every bite — even when my pants got tight. The fluffiness of the bread was a delightful contrast to the fried pizzette bread, and every flavor in the dish could be tasted with each bite. I am not a dessert lover, but this dish may have just converted me.
The Tsukemen Carbonara was served with guanciale, mentaiko (spicy pollack/cod roe) and scallions. On the side came a frothy pecorino broth with pink peppercorn. The waitress explained that the pasta was to be dipped in the creamy sauce, and our table enjoyed doing so.
One meal and I was hooked on Itameshi cuisine. It was because of this that I walked away from the meal having no doubt that Kimika will continue to succeed among the big players that occupy Kenmare Street. The only thing I left needing from Kimika? A dinner reservation.
