La Cigogne: Regional Diversity in French Cuisine
Bordering the countries of Germany and Switzerland, one will find Alsace, the northeast region of France. Its geographic location lends itself to a conflation of cultures, and prides itself on traditional dishes like tartes flambées (thin-crust flatbreads) and spätzles (homemade egg noodles). Named after the iconic stork that’s lived in the region for centuries, La Cigogne has made a name for Alsatian cuisine in Brooklyn.
The cozy yet elegant bistro has been named one of the best restaurants in Carroll Gardens by Zagat and Grubstreet, so it was quite a miracle that I happened to stumble upon it on a cold Tuesday night. Initially intrigued by its greenhouses and outdoor dining setup, I was sold the moment I called the restaurant; French accents at a French restaurant are always a good sign.
La Cigogne was born in 2014 when Damien Frey, Alsatian native and co-owner, was encouraged by friends to open his first solo venture. Having years of experience as a manager at Caffe Linda, he enlisted the likes of Jeremy Andre to bring his dream to life. The dream has manifested itself in the form of irresistible dishes, exquisite cocktails, and exceptional service.
The understated ambience embodies the joie de vivre I have so longed for this past year. The idea of going out to eat without a reservation and without checking the weather on a weeknight almost seems like a foreign language to me. I quickly felt my shoulders relax as the ease and convenience of it all made me sigh with relief. The charming street lined with brownstones and dim porch lights set the scene for a lovely evening.
Draft beers are imported from The Meteor Brewery, the oldest brewery in France, and much of the wine comes from Alsace as well. While Mezcal is quite a juxtaposition on the cocktail list, it is not a list to be overlooked! Adorned with metal toothpicks and elegant garnishes, I finished the first drink before dinner arrived.
Appetizers came in the form of meats, and lots of them. From Escargots to Bone Marrow, the traditional dishes were complimented by toasted baguettes to soak up the juices (arguably as delicious as the dishes themselves). Country Style Pâte topped with dried cranberries reminded me of Passover and Thanksgiving at the same time, and I quickly realized that I no longer have an excuse to avoid the chopped liver at family gatherings.
When our undoubtedly ethnocentric minds think of a NY Strip steak, a sizzling hot slab of meat comes to mind (or maybe even Steak Frites). Flipping that thought on its head, the NY Strip we ordered was chopped up and served raw. Topped with onions, capers, pine nuts, tabasco cornichon, and mustard, this Tartare de Beoeud au Couteau was rich and heavy in flavor; so much so that it was easy to forget about the mixed green salad served alongside it.
The best was certainly saved for last when our waiter placed a chafing dish on our table. DIY Raclette atop potatoes was a whimsical and hilarious end to the night. While melting the cheese without having it stick to the pan is no easy feat (and certainly stunk up our enclosed greenhouse), the laughs and memories were well worth it.
As we finished our drinks, we opened the door and made friends with curious puppies that peeked their heads in as they passed by. Not only did I leave this spontaneous dinner with a smile on my face, but I learned quite a bit about the regionality of French cuisine. I am eager to return and try more Alsatian specialties, and to try the team’s second spot, Barely Disfigured, when it reopens in the spring!
La Cigogne is located at 215 Union St., Brooklyn, New York, 11231. Reservations are available via OpenTable, and delivery is available via Seamless, DoorDash, GrubHub, Postmates, and Caviar.
