Ladybird: A Meatless Medley
I’ll be honest, the only reason I knew about Ladybird was because I frequently passed it on my way to Big Gay Ice Cream further down the block. When my friends invited me to dinner there, I accepted on one condition: that our vegetarian meal was completed by a (very) large ice cream cone from next door. I was naive to associate being vegetarian with leaving hungry.
Ladybird describes itself as a “chic, trendy vegetable tapas restaurant” in the East Village. Conceptualized by New York native and Restaurateur Ravi DeRossi (Death & Company, Mother of Pearl, Desnuda), this lively spot stands out, and yet, fits perfectly into the neighborhood. While the physical structure was great, the decor was somewhat of a hodgepodge. Surrounded by faux purple plants and a pink, translucent shower curtain, I did not feel the same level of class I knew I would feel inside.
The beverage program consists of a reliable wine list, craft beers, and surprisingly tropical cocktails. I went for the Pink Guava with Lillet Rose, and opted for the additional prosecco (a four dollar upcharge that was well worth it). What was placed in front of me was a large wine glass with mint ice cubes. The cocktail and extra prosecco came out separately in branded bottles, and it was up to me to concoct the perfect bubble-to-cocktail ratio. For my Harry Potter fans, the result looked like a pink Goblet of Fire, and I was not mad about it.
While small, the menu boasts an array of dishes and cuisines. I wondered if the only reason these items were packaged on one menu was due to the fact that they are all vegetarian, and truthfully am still wondering this now.
Because the food took a bit longer than expected, our friendly and helpful waiter brought over a round of shots for our table that were quite tasty. My friends and I were incredibly appreciative of this, and even more appreciative of the fact that when the food did come out, it was staggered. Tapas all at once can feel overwhelming, and the kitchen did a great job of making sure we paced ourselves.
I am a sucker for any sort of steamed bun, so we ordered both varieties on the menu; the Buffalo Maitake Buns proved superior. I’m not sure if it was the hunger that kicked in, but topping these with pickled celery and ranch did just the trick (and helped calm my buzz). The Truffle Mac & Cheese with truffle oil, breadcrumbs, and seared mushroom followed, but was not quite cheesy enough for me.
Next came the Brussel Sprout Salad, which was my favorite dish of the night. Complete with endive, apple, quinoa, soy truffle, and tossed in just the right amount of vinaigrette, I took the last helping without consulting my tablemates. The bitterness of the endive complimented the sweetness of the apple quite well.
The meal concluded with a Mushroom & Onion Toast finished with black garlic aioli and pickled mushrooms. The loud crunch of the bread confirmed it was toasted just right, and the dish as a whole was hard not to like.
Overall, the amalgamation of decor and dishes was unlike any I have seen before, but maybe that’s how DeRossi intended it to be. Maybe it isn’t, but that’s the kind of limbo the restaurant industry is in right now.
It was not until some additional research that I learned DeRossi is a lifelong animal lover and launched non-profit BEAST, which holds fundraising parties and special events to improve animal lives. According to their site, DeRossi has also decided to “transform all his restaurants to being fully vegan,” to, “remove all animal products and by-products from each of his 14 successful restaurants and bars.”
Needless to say I did not need dessert after this meal. I admired the bright green lights illuminating the Ladybird sign, and watched them fade away as I strolled home down the middle of 7th Street.
Ladybird is located at 111 E 7th St, New York, NY 10009.
