Wayan: Sugar, Spice, and Everything Nice
I have walked through the streets of NoLita every single week for the past year. My Sunday routine consists of lattes, people watching in Elizabeth Street Garden, and window shopping through the picturesque streets. It’s no surprise that Wayan caught my eye, but it wasn’t until the day before my reservation that I discovered Cédric Vongerichten helmed the kitchen.
For those of you who may not know, Cédric Vongerichten is the son of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, one of the world’s most famous chefs (abc Kitchen, The Mercer Kitchen, The Fulton, Perry St, to name a few). Wayan is Cédric’s first solo restaurant, after partnering with his father on eateries in New York and Jakarta. Wayan’s website states that “in Balinese culture, each person receives one of four names based on birth order. Wayan is the name given to the first-born child — or, in this case, to the chef’s first independent culinary effort.”
Now you might have the same question I did: did Cédric live up to his father’s name? I had no idea, but I knew I was in for a unique culinary experience.
As mentioned, the streets of NoLita are quite picturesque, and Wayan certainly contributes to this aesthetic. There is something about walking down the middle of the street in New York at night that is so cliche, but so fun. With all of Spring Street closed off, Wayan’s candlelit tables stretched down the block. Outdoor seating was filled with planters, hanging space heaters, overhead tarp, and socially distanced tables. The inside is even more beautiful, from the lush plants and whitewashed brick at the bar to the sleek, dimly lit bathrooms.
Wayan is described as Indonesian cuisine with a modern French flair. I would only recommend Wayan to the adventurous eater with strong spices in your palette. While this is a theme throughout that I quite enjoyed, I understand this is not for everyone.
Onto the food. And lots of it.
The meal commenced with an unconventional cocktail: Yuzu Fizz with botanist gin, yuzu, chickpea water, and thai basil. I was surprised at the potency of the chickpea, as I often associate the taste of chickpea with subtlety. Each ingredient was needed to balance the other out.
Wayan plates are meant for sharing, so I was able to try multiple dishes. However, they all came out at once. While I do not prefer this type of service, the waiter had warned us this would be the case.
Out came the small plates. Chicken satay with peanut sauce had strong hints of makrut, a citrus fruit (similar to a lime) native to tropical Southeast Asia. Both its fruit and leaves are used in Southeast Asian cuisine. The Brussel Campur was really just plain old brussel sprouts, but they were delicious nonetheless.
Octopus a la Plancha with roasted fennel, sweet chili sauce, and cilantro was next, and its flavor was the strongest of any dish I ate that night. The octopus (boiled then grilled) was perfectly cooked, but it was the fennel that was a bit too overpowering for me. I chose to leave some fennel behind, but was already onto the Avocado “Gado Gado” with hard-boiled quail eggs, cucumber, and peanut relish. Let me tell you, quail eggs are not only tasty, but seriously adorable.
The large plates came in the form of Lobster Noodles and Crispy Baby Back Pork Ribs. The noodles, topped with buttered kecap manis and thai basil, were the most interesting dish of the night due to the juxtaposition of ingredients and powerful pepper flavor. Imagine cheap Maruchan ramen noodles with sweet, fresh lobster piled on top. The elevated take on the all-too-familiar meal was both playful and delicious, toying with my memories of after-school snacks.
The pork ribs with soy tamarind glaze and sesame seeds were plated so beautifully I didn’t want to eat them. Laying on a banana leaf and topped with vibrant flowers, these ribs were easy to spot. As I looked around, I noticed multiple tables had ordered them as well. I knew I had made the right call, and tasting them had only confirmed this.
I most definitely have a sweet tooth, but I will always choose the savory dish over sweet. However, it was the desserts at Wayan that were truly the star of the show. The Banana Sundae with banana cake and ube ice cream was one of the best desserts I have ever eaten in my life. The chocolate ganache with avocado ice cream and coffee sauce was also incredibly tasty, but the ube ice cream ranked supreme.
Ube, otherwise known as a purple yam, is a staple dessert ingredient in the Philippines. According to the Food Network, “its smooth texture and sweet flavor are often compared to white chocolate.” It is also used to color sweet treats and breads.
Before heading out and rolling home, I spoke with our waiter who explained the importance of giving diners the experience he would want to be given. In a time of such confusion, uncertainty, and frustration in the restaurant industry, I was incredibly appreciative of his time, effort, and overall positive energy.
So did Cédric Vongerichten live up to his father’s name? He may have a few more restaurants to establish and a few more cuisines to try, but he is well on his way. I look forward to returning to Wayan soon.
